Olav's Way Page 2.
Oslo is on the seaward edge of a valley, so to go inland you have to climb over the ridge, a long climb. This was wooded and very steep, but by mid-morning we had emerged into open country.
We had to cross the valley between Oslo and Lake Mjosa, which would take a few days. We walked mostly through farmland with the odd small town where we could stock up on coffee and waffles, and camped in a graveyard. Its legal to camp anywhere not under cultivation and not enclosed or near a building in Norway, which is great, but even though you are not supposed to camp in them we like to camp in churchyards as there is always water and they are peaceful. Its not always possible to time it right to ensure you are away from town when you want to camp, and if you camp near town the shops will be open when you get up.
Churches make handy campsites...
Norwegian graveyards are built on a bigger scale than ours, with big areas free of graves, lots of space for the future dead, or for Pilgrim tents... Hope Kate's knickers didn't offend the priest!
The next day back into the woods. By now we felt we were in St Olav's Gang, and found a sign telling us where to go.
It was hard to believe in the 30 degree heat that anyone would need a sled to live here!
Soon we left Skedsmo and were in Ullensaker, sacred to the god Ull. They have made man-holes in his honour. We met a very interesting character called Kris who lives on Ull's old temple mound, stupidly we didn't take any photos. He ran a pilgrim hostel, but it was too early in the day to stop. He gave us directions for the next bit of the route which was terribly overgrown and involved crossing the worst bridge on the whole route (at least the worst one still standing, all the worse ones had been swept away!).
Ull, God of archery and skiing.
You have to be brave to be a Pilgrim!
We got a little lost and walked a few kilometres the wrong way around the airport, misled by an out of date waymark that hadn't been removed. We were shattered and didn't have enough time to get out of the local town (Dal) to find somewhere to camp before nightfall. We ended up camping on waste ground between Lidls supermarket and the railway. It was Saturday night, we had walked for 5 days and were beginning to realise how hard this was going to be. Its a funny moment that happens a little way into any long journey, and though we were expecting it that doesn't blunt the existential angst. Why am I doing this? I am so tired and I still have so far to go! The photo shows Oslo Airport, we didn't use it but still had to walk around it. Twice.
We were still largely in suburbs with patches of woodland and agricultural land, but that was about to change. First we crossed the river Vorma. Looking North we could see the beginning of Lake Mjosa, which would dominate the first half of the journey.
After a grub stop and replenishing our supply of tinned sardines and instant mashed potato (our staple trekking diet) at the garage, we covered the few kilometres to Sollihogda Trevarfabrikk (an isolated factory) and entered proper forest.
When burning 3500 calories per day, bad garage food suddenly becomes hugely alluring...
This photo shows one of the many styles of waymark on the route.
It would take us nearly three days to cross this patch of forest, it was amazingly beautiful, like something from the Lord of the Rings. It was easy going at first. We saw a sign for Lake Floyta and everything seemed to be going to plan.
The way to Floyta, apparently...
However we soon entered an area that had been clear cut and the signs all destroyed. We found some red ribbons and followed these, but they seemed to take us a very bumpy route! We found a lake, but it seemed all wrong. We were lost. We wandered over to a little cabin, and a friendly couple popped out! They tried to explain where we were, and showed us a map, but they weren't sure where the official route went. We were at the wrong lake, and a few kilometres off track. It was, of course, pouring with rain too. We had to slop through a bog, and go round the edge of the lake, and then round another. We found red splashes of paint on some rocks, we had found a path, but weren't sure whether to go left or right along it. There are no photos of this part of the journey (we were a little too stressed...). We headed North deciding to follow the path, hoping it would eventually take us to a road. It was a very narrow and rocky path, and we followed it for what seemed like hours.
Eventually we found a road. Hurrah! And the sun came out! I emptied the water out of my boots, and we decorated the rocks with our wet clothes.
Fashionably black, but unfashionably wet camping gear. Kate made her dress from black pertex, it weighs less than 150 grams!
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